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Quik trip to Zillertal
After the Worldcup in Innsbruck I made a little timeout off the competition season with two great days in the Zillertal. Despite the bad weather forecast we had two great and sunny days with lots of climbing.
At the end of the trip I was really regained and get new motivation for the next Worldcups in Toronto, Canada and Vail America.


Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck 2013
Just view days after the competition in Log Dragomer, I traveled to the Worldcup in Innsbruck. A beautiful city with the mountains in the background and it is close to my hometown Munich.

I made the 9th place in my qualification group, consequently I was qualified for the semis at the next day shortish like the whole season! Nevertheless, I made my 8th semi in a row.
The semi was a bit strange: Two very easy problems first and then two really hard boulders. Maybe the hardest ones of the season... I did the first and the second problem the first in the flash attempt and the second in the tritd try. That’s why I hasn`t enough power for the last two Problems.
With two tops in four tries I made the 17th place.

However, the best of this weekend was the German double win by Jule and Jan! What a success for two Germans in the Austrian capital city of climbing!!!
Now I am looking forward to the next Worldcups in Toronto and Vail...



Boulder World Cup in Log Dragomer 2013

Two weeks after Kitzbühel, the Weltcupcircus took place in Log Dragomer, Slovenian.
And the competition was different, they painted the wall green and for the qualification just yellow holds. It looked quite nice! 

Same as in Kitzbühel, the first problem was a slab but much easier. So I did it in the second go. What a success for me. The next one was a bit to hard, therefore I got very pumped. The third boulder was powerful problem in the roof, definitively my favorite. So I flashed the problem, yeah! In the fourth problem I couldn`t find a solution in time .That is why I got a little bit under pressure fort he last boulder of the day. I was able to do it in the second try. And same procedure than every Worldcup I get close in the semis... I think I like this kind of kick ;) Next day, new game. However, I wasn`t very successful... Consequently I took the 18th place.

Boulder World Cup in Kitzbühel 2013
With a extended German Team we drive to Kitzbühel for the next BWC.
The men started at Friday forenoon with the qualification, so I had time to check out the wall and the kind of routesetting.
Udo Neumann
My qualification starts in the afternoon at the ice arena of Kitzbühel where the BWC take place. The first problem was a tricky jump whom I nearly missed, the second was a cruel plate with a greasy foothold. The third one was my favorite in the qualification, a powerful boulder with forceps holds, definitively my style! I flashed it. The next one was a bit of annoying problem for me, I couldn`t find a solution for the final move. The last boulder was quite easy, so I haven`t any problems to flash it.
Finally, I took the 9th place in my group and was qualified for the semis...

In the evenning we grilled all together in our cabin, it was a great ending of the day.

The semifinal starts with another plate for me and I wasn`t although able to do it. I think plates are one of my weaknesses! A esay little jump on some volumes was the second problem, it wasn`t to hard for me but very painful so could manage them in the third go. For the third boulder I had some problems with the start... At my flash go in the fourth problem I couldn`t match the second hand at the top hold, afterwards I was to pump for the boulder... It was so annoying for me!

Because of the missed match at the fourth problem I took the 16th place.

Boulder World Cup in Millau 2013
Heiko Wilhelm
The second World Cup took place in Millau, in the south of France.
And the differences between the BWC in China and this one in France were enormously.
Nice city, every thing is „clean“ and edible food.

At the competition we had a large wall for warm up, but the competitive walls were in a small, dark and cold hall. Four detached towers, which have the best years already behind them.
At the qualification, I had problems with the route setting and I could manage just two tops. With these two tops I go through the semifinal at the 18th place.
The same goes on in the semifinal. I couldn't top one problem and so I finished with my 3 bonuses at the 17th place. Well, it wasn't my best day ;)

Boulder World Cup in Chongqing 2013
Heiko Wilhelm
My packlist for the first BWC of the year: Five Ten Teams, Black Diamond White Gold and a half case full with food. Because last year I have learned, I couldn't eat the chinese food. It's definitely to hot for me, so I took rice cakes and crispbread with me.
We arrived three days before to acclimate and not to be jet-lagged. We played basketball, took a walk and had fun at the playground.
At the day of the qualification I was well prepared and I was psyched for the first BWC of the season.

In China starts always less climbers, but the top fifteen were already there. The qualification was a bit easier, because of just 22 starters. So it wasn't a problem for me to get to the semifinal.
Before the first semifinal boulder I was so nervous. The first problem was easy, however I gave the flash attempt away. At the second go, it was no problem for me. The same happend on the second and third boulder, I missed always careless the first attempt. The fourth problem was much harder, therefore I could only manage the bonus hold.
At the end I get annoyed about my high number of missed attempts, thus I thought about a possibly result in the top fifteen. In the end I took the 6th place and was qualified for the final! What a surprise for me!!!

I had so much fun at the final, great problems – besides the last one – and cool moves. I was able to get every bonus hold, after the bonus it became really hard. Finally I finished 6th. What a unexpected result! It was a great feeling to be in a World Cup final!
A perfect start in China for me and I'm psyched for the next one...


Preparations tour through Germany
After the Hard Moves event I started with the last preparations for the commencing World cup season. Together with Jule we planed a little trip through the „finest“ boulder gyms of Germany.

It all starts the day after the Hard Moves. We drove to Frechen and take a little session with Jan in the Cimpanzodrome.
The next stop at our trip should be the Camp4 in Zweibrücken. Matze created some competitions boulder just for us! What a great service, thanks Matze!
After two hard days of training we moved to the new Boulderwelt in Frankfurt. There were just the route setters at the final arrangements for the german youth boulder cup, so it was perfect to test the boulders for the competition.

in Café Kraft
Continued we moved to Stuttgart to the Climbmax, but there were no boulder with competetion style. Nevertheless, there were more than enough good/hard boulders for training. At the end of the training unit we did a little 4x4 for our endurance. This are four hard problems in a row, than a two minute break and the hole thing four times again.
At our resting day we drove to Nürnberg and relaxed a little bit. We decided two train twice on this day. At the morning in the Café Kraft with campusboarding at the end and in the afternoon in the brand new E4. The E4 isn`t opend yet, so we had the honor to test all the great new stuff without anyone in the gym. Thank`s to Dirk who made this possible. After a few hours of training I was totaly done and also my skin.

The final destination of our journey was the Boulderwelt in Regensburg. Jule and I were completely done but some boulders and a final 4x4 had to go.
After this tour I needed two days of rest for me and my skin.
It was a great time of training with Jule!
I just hope I will be fit for the first BWC in Chongqing...


 Hard Moves 2013
It was the second time for me to compete at the Hard Moves. I started together with Freddy, Chiara, Markus, Chris, Marcos, Flo, Stefan, Robin and Nico for the Boulderwelt Muinch team.
The qualification for the „Superfinal“ took place at the Wupperwände. During the qualification time, the whole gym was completely overcrowded with motivated athletes which attempted to do so many boulders they could.

Two hours before the end of the qualification we decided to save our skin and power for the final because of the big advance against the other teams.
So we complete the quali at the first place and got at the „Superfinal“ in the Schwimmoper.

It was a amazing scene! The pool with this huge swimming seven meter wall and the stands with this noisy crowd! I couldn`t wait to start...
The spectacle begans and I got goose pimples. Six boulders for each team and the team had to decide which starter could solve the problem.
My trun was at the fifth problem. It wasn`t to hard but I fell two times at the last move... and so I had two long drop downs!

At the end we did the fourth place, we had problem of the correct divide of the boulders. Well, maybe next year!

German Boulder Competition in Munich 2013
bergleben.de
The first competition of the German Nationalchampionship in 2013 took place at the ISPO in Munich.

On Friday was the qualification, it was a little bit stressi because of the huge number of climbers by the mens and womens. The boulders in the qualification round were to esay for a Nationalchampionship, two boulders were topped by the most of the climbers, the third problem was a bit harder but also too soft. The only difficult boulder was the fourth one, of course the morpho tug at the middle. However, the qualification was not a problem for me and I was able to prepare myself for the next day.

The semifinal was perfect for me, I was able to flash all four problems! It was a great feeling and I looked forward to the finals at the evening.

I was bit nervous before the finals starts. Watching the problem, get in the isolationzone and long time of waiting. Allowed as last climber I get to the first finalboulder. I was not concentrating enough, so at the first go my right foot sliped off the volume! At the second go I did the boulder very easy. The next one get no top, I was nearly at the top but the last move was to morpho for me. The third and fourth boulder were too easy so I flashed both of them.

Based on my lazy laspe at the first problem I attained the second place. Annoying, but I want it to be seen positively remembered to be focus!

Here you can find a great Video about this competition: Video


Monday, 22. August 2011 German Boulder Competition in Überlingen
The final of the German Boulder series in 2011 took place in Überlingen, a nice place next to the Bodensee. It was traditional.
Unfortunately, the weather was not as good as the last years, so the organizers had some problems with the competition walls.  The holds were wet; also the mats were wet, so that the climbers got wet shoes, when they started in a boulder problem.
The atmosphere between the climbers was not good. The competition was a disaster.

At the end, the umpires stopped the Final round because the rain got heavier. The result was very strange, only some of the boulders were count.
For me, this was the worst competition ever. There was no fun.
My result was a 4th place, in fact not really bad.
In the whole series I was on the second place, so I’m the German vice boulder champion.



 Monday, 11.July 2011   Boulder Borldcup in Sheffield
Two weeks after my first semi-final in an international competition, I was on the road to Sheffield, the next boulder world cup.
The weather was fantastic: sunny and hot! Motivated by the great weather, I climbed the boulders from the qualifying. So I climbed three problems and with this result I was easily qualified for the semi-final on the next day.
Like Saturday the sun was shining on Sunday. The atmosphere was intoxicating. That is why I was motivated although I had no power anymore. Anyhow, I was not able to climb just one boulder, but I got all bonus evaluation. Amazing, but this was good enough for a 13th place. My best result in a world cup, so far…


Wednesday, 6.July 2011    Boulder Worldcup in Eindhoven
In Eindhoven, I had my second boulder world cup this year. After a good competition in Vienna my in Eindhoven was the semi-final.
It was an open-air competition, but the weather didn’t play a good game, so the viewers disappeared under many umbrellas. A funny picture.
As I had gotten some points in the world ranking list in the competition in Vienna, I didn’t have to wait too long in the Isolation. For me, that was an important thing for being even more motivated.
In the qualifying, I was able to climb three Boulders in four tries. It was not until this round finished, that I realized that my result was good enough for the semi-final! My first semi-final in an international competition!
On the next day was the semi-final. I was really tired from the previous day, but I was so happy to be allowed to climb this semi-final. Although I just climbed one of the Boulder problems, I reached the 17th place. And I was really content.


 Thuesday, 5.July 2011    German Boulder Competition in Frankfurt
On July the third German boulder competition took place in Frankfurt. Maybe it was because of the holiday period or maybe it was because of the hot temperatures, but not too many people competed.

The qualifying consisted of simple, easy and normal boulders, a good round for getting warm. The final was completly different. Cool Boulder problems, hard moves, great feeling!

In the end, the result was very curt. Julia Winter and I had the same result, so the points from the semi-final decided on the winner. It was me, who was lucky to win this competition!


Sunday, 5. June 2011     My first High Jump contest

Every year one of the biggest Fun-Competitions (Münchner Stadtmeisterschaften) takes place in Munich. Like last year, I helped to create some of the boulder problems, too. Altogether, there were 50 Boulders from very easy to really hard, for kids and for adults, varied, funny, exciting.

After three days working, the Boulders were tested by the starters. Their opinion: “great problems”. So, what more?

Between the qualification and the finale there was a High Jump. Spontaneously, I decided to compete. My very first High Jump!
After a few jumps as a warm-up, the distance between the holds grew bigger and bigger. Those who couldn’t do the jump dropped out. In the end, there were only two women left: Isi and me. After some more jumps there was no decision, so both of us were first.

So my first High Jump was really successful and it was fun, but I still think bouldering is the best discipline of climbing!




Wednesday, 1. June 2011     Boulder Weltcup Vienna



By reason of my good result at the competition in Kitzbühel, I was allowed to start at the boulder world cup in Vienna, my second world cup.

With pleasant anticipation I went to Vienna. The qualifying was on Friday. The women’s competition started in the evening because of the summery temperature. So I had a lot of time to adapt to the competition situation while watching the men’s qualification round. Finally, after a long day full of waiting, the women started to climb. With the new green Tricot I started to climb the first Boulder.

First Boulder: climbed in the first try. A good beginning.
Second Boulder: a jump. Five tries and the Boulder was completed.
Third Boulder: again climbed in the first try. It runs good.
Fourth Boulder: actually good tries, but I wasn’t able to hold the last hold.
Fifth Boulder: top in the second try.

In the end, I was 27th; almost qualifying for the semi-final.
But the most important thing is that it was a great competition with wonderful boulder problems and that I had a lot of fun.




Tuesday, 17. May 2011     KITZ Rock 2011

On the first weekend in May a big event took place in Kitzbühel, Austria. The KITZRock Boulder cup is always a well-organized competition in Austria, where also German climbers are allowed to compete. The qualification round on Friday consisted of six Boulder problems, more than it is usual at German competitions. It was already in this first round that the rout setters showed their knowledge of creating great boulders. The problems were funny, interesting and varied.


Although I was not that confident of a good result because I did not train a lot in the last weeks by reason of my last tests in school, I was able to reach the semi-final and in the end actually the final. At last, I noticed during the final round that                 my power was leaving. However I tried my very best and was able to reach the top of two boulders. It was a pity, but I fell off the last hold of the last boulder; with a top in this one I could have gotten a better placement. Anyhow at the end of the competition I was third. Better than I ever expected.First was JulianeWurm, second was Katharina Saurwein.




Tuesday, 15. March 2011     Bavarian championship in Bouldering


Some days before, a big competition took place in Munich. Bavaria's best climbers came to this competition in bouldering searching for the best one. The start was early in the morning; and although I was tired, I was looking forward to the next hours. The boulder problems were varied: some dynamic moves, some static moves, a little bit of everything. So it was fun to climb them. Amazing, but I was able to climb each boulder in the first try, so I won the competition. What a great feeling.




Monday, 7. February 2011     German Boulder Competition in Munich

The first German competition took place at the Munich Trade Fair last weekend. This event is popular with many people. Some just like to watch the climbers others like to participate. But everybody likes the intoxicating atmosphere. Never before did so many women participate in a German Boulder competition. More than 30 women came for bouldering and having fun. In the qualifying round the boulders were not too hard, but varied. This changed with the next round, in the semi-finals. It got harder and harder to reach the top.

I have been lucky to be one of the best six athletes of the preliminary who was qualifying for the final. In this round we had to climb four different boulders each with four minutes time. Two others and I could climb the first boulder. It was a bit complicated to find the right way for solving this boulder problem because we had to decide between a jump and the static variant.

The next boulder was really difficult. Only one of us had enough power to reach the Top. In contrast the third problem had an easy start, but ended with a move that was impossible to do. So the decision fell on the last boulder. It was a powerful, but also varied boulder which was fun to climb. Juliane Wurm could climb it in her first try and won this competition. I followed on the second place. Julia Winter scored the third place.

This was a good start for me in the new season. Hopefully the next competitions will end like this.


Sunday, 7. November 2010     Some days in Fontainebleau

Amazing how great the landscape can be in autumn. I've been in Fontainebleau last week with two guys from Munich. Our plan was having fun and climbing some of the great boulders.

Even the weather wasn't that good as expected, we enjoyed the 6 days. On rainy days we walked through the woods and were enthused: the yellow trees amidst the green trees, the falling leaves, the changing clouds, ... However, on sunny days we climbed high motivated. By reason of the wet conditions we weren't able to climb many hard stuff, so for example "Magic Bus" 7b, "Le Pare Dessus" 7a+, "S'apelle au logis" 7a, "Joker" 7a, "Attention Chef d'Oeuvre."


Monday, 26. July 2010     One week in the Magic Wood

A few weeks ago I have been to Magic Wood (Switzerland, Averstal). The sun was shining, there was no rain and all the people I met were friendly and high motivated for bouldering. It was amazing, but this motivation made me stronger, so I could climb my first 7c+ (Du côté de Seshuan) and 3 other 7c's (Kuchenmonster, Man of the cow and Höhenzone) ...

I hope I will be back soon again in Magic Wood to boulder many other stuff and feel the magic of this place!


Saturday, 10. July 2010     New Boulderhall in Munich

The largest Boulderhall "Boulderwelt" opened last weekend in Munich.

Last Saturday a big event started in Munich: The largest Boulderhall of the world opened in Munich. It is build in an old factory building, but nothing remembers it. The hall is huge and highlighted because of the many windows and the white colour on the walls. So they create a beautiful atmosphere which makes it more comfortable to train.

For celebrating this big moment a competition took place in this hall. It was just for fun but with many prizes to win.
100 boulders in every difficulty. The boulders were interesting and varied, so everyone could find something for pleasure. Even it was very hot many people came to watch this new hall. All were enthusiastic.
After 6 hours bouldering the competition continued with "Biertischbouldern". It means bouldering around a picnic-trestle-table as fast as possible.
The spirit was brilliant, so I am sure everyone had a lot of fun!

All in all it was a great day and I am sure that I will often train in this new hall.

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